Are collagen supplements a waste of money?

Collagen…

… magic or myth?

Not all of us age like Christie Brinkley, who is looking pretty flawless forty years or so after being on a cover of Sports Illustrated. As we start noticing first wrinkles, we might start thinking about how we can keep our skin looking fresh as long as possible. One of the non invasive options, that are marketed to potentially enhance the way our skin looks, is collagen. What is collagen? How does it work? Do collagen supplements even work? Let’s have a closer look!

Why do we need collagen?

Collagen is a protein. It is also one of the building blocks of our body. We can find it in our skin, bones, tendons, ligaments, muscles, arteries, organs, eyes hair and even placenta. Our body produces collagen from protein rich foods. Unfortunately as we age, our body starts producing less and less of it. This process starts to occur in late twenties and manifests itself very visibly in appearance of wrinkles. But it also impacts the way our hair and nails look.

Boosting collagen levels would not be beneficial only for our skin, hair and nails, but could relieve joint pain, promote heart health or muscle mass and bone density. It is no surprise that many of us would like to reap the benefits of collagen.

Can it be done? How? There are two obvious potential avenues, we will look into, a cream and digestion.

Are collagen supplement a waste of money? Healthy Skin. Beautiful Woman With Beauty Face Pulling Elastic Facial Skin. High Resolution.

What are collagen supplements?

Collagen is an incomplete protein. This is because it does not contain amino acids. Its challenge is that it cannot be absorbed by our body unless it is broken down into smaller parts, collagen peptides. This means that the collagen supplements that we might be taking are not actually collagen but collagen peptides. Collagen peptides are also known as hydrolyzed collagen.

They are produced using a method called hydrolysis. The process starts by getting protein from bones, skin and connective tissues of animals (usually cow) or fish (marine collagen) by drying, washing and treating it with acid. At the end of the process we get a powder or liquid with collagen fragments called peptides.

An advantage of collagen peptides is that they are more likely to be absorbed by our body than larger molecules of collagen. This speaks in favor of collagen peptides as the actual collagen gets absorbed only in very limited amount and hence the effect of using it can be minimal.

Are collagen supplements a waste of money. A jar with collagen peptides.

Do collagen supplements work?

Collagen creams

Let’s have a look at collagen creams. These are marketed as a solution to replace diminished collagen and slow down aging. In order to make these work, collagen would need to get through a top layer of skin called epidermis to the second layer called dermis. This layer of skin is the place where collagen together with elastin and hyaluronic acid are present.

Unfortunately collagen molecule is too large to penetrate the outer layer of the skin. And collagen peptide creams have neither proven to be able to do the job in any significant amount to make a difference. With the current level of knowledge and technology it is not possible to produce a collagen or collagen peptide cream that would be able to get a significant amount of collagen in the dermis.

Digestible collagen supplements

Now we know that we cannot enhance look of our skin by using collagen in a form of a cream. Let’s look at the next natural option. It would be to take collagen peptides orally. This can be done either in a form of a powder, tablet or liquid.

When we digest collagen peptides, most of them unfortunately leave our body unused via gastrointestinal tract. A small amount of collagen peptides stays. This increases levels of amino acids in our body. Unfortunately there is no scientific evidence that these amino acids can be directed into producing collagen for our skin or keratin for our hair. Instead it is very likely that these amino acids are absorbed by our body in a similar way that any other source of protein would.

Do collagen peptides actually work? Three multicultural female friends smiling and embracing each other in a studio. Group of vibrant young women enjoying themselves while standing against an orange background.

Collagen supplements might not be the answer, so what is?

What non invasive solution does actually make any significant impact? Your best bet with the current scientific knowledge might be vitamin A (also known as retinol). Our body cannot synthetize vitamin A. This means that we need to supply it externally. We can get it in a form of provitamin A present in veggies such as carrots, butternut squash or sweet potatoes Another way to get vitamin A is in a form of retinoids from animal based nutrition such as fish, eggs or milk.

Retinoids have been scientifically proven to enhance skin and repairing damage of our skin caused by sun exposure. The trial on mice has proven that ‘0.1% tretinoin (retinoid) cream results in complete blockade of interstitial collagenase and gelatinases synthesis.’ (1) This rather complex sentence means, that a strong retinoid cream can prevent degradation of collagen in our skin.

In addition to that an ‘application of 0.1% tretinoin also blocked UV-induced activation of the nuclear transcription factors AP-1 and NF-κB’ (1). This means that retinoids are also capable of deactivating genes responsible for increased skin aging and inflammation. The limitation of retinoids is our body’s response. Retinoids often cause burning like sensation and skin peeling, so there is a limit as to what many of us can tolerate in order to improve our skin.

Let’s stay in touch!

Are you using collagen peptides or retinol? What are your thoughts? Let us know on Instagram, LinkedIn or TikTok. Would you like to learn about protein powders? Head to The truth about protein powder where everything is explained. Or join me for a workout!

Fancy getting a new workout mat to keep yourself motivated?

DISCLAIMER: This article and any associated social media is created for entertainment and informational purposes only. They do not constitute medical advice or professional services specific to you or your medical condition.

Resources:

Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety, Siddharth Mukherjee, Abhijit Date, Vandana Patravale, Hans Christian Korting, Alexander Roeder, Günther Weindl, Clin Interv Aging. 2006 Dec; 1(4): 327–348., PMCID: PMC2699641, Published online 2006 Dec. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327, downloaded 05/06/2024 from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641

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